Frequently Asked Questions

Declawing Cats

My cat is tearing up our house and I'm considering declawing. Is this a good idea?

Cats by nature absolutely love to stretch and scratch certain surfaces. Scratching allows the cat not only to stretch, but to sharpen their claws and mark their territory. This is a very normal behavior for all cats, but sometimes the cat chooses scratching sites that are not particularly ideal- the new couch that was just delivered, you with your new pants on, or the expensive sheers hanging in the window! Obviously these are not ideal surfaces and the cat's behavior must be curbed.
Most cats can be trained to use a scratching post instead of the alternatives. This is done by first purchasing a scratching post that has a wide base, is secure, at least two to three feet tall, and has a rough surface on it that is attractive to the cat- such as burlap or wound rope. It must have these features because the cat has to be able to stand up and pull down on the post to scratch and stretch, yet not pull it over. These posts can be made or purchased from many different stores.

Training begins with placing the scratching post where the cat sleeps or somewhere that it enjoys hanging out. Then, carry your cat to the scratching post, gently take its front feet, and rub them up and down on the post. If the cat struggles or is scared, don't restrain it or continue to frighten it- remember this must be fun! The key is repetition, and gradually your cat will learn that the scratching post is an approved surface to destroy at any time.

It is also important that you realize cats can be trained, and you must teach the cat that scratching the curtains, couch, your new pants, or any place besides the scratching post is unacceptable. This may involve using a squirt gun, loud noise, or something else that alerts the cat while it's scratching off-limit places. Never strike or hit the cat as this will cause more harm than good. Be patient and don't give up, repetition is important.

If you have tried unsuccessfully to train your cat and are considering giving it up, declawing is another option. This is only to be done on cats that are strictly indoors. Only the front feet should be declawed. The back feet are usually not a problem and are left alone so that if the cat were ever to get outside, it could still climb up a tree or partly defend itself.

Declawing is best done at the time of spaying or neutering- approximately five to six months of age. This procedure can be done very humanely with the use of pain medications. Pain management has the best results if it is started approximately 15 to 20 minutes before the surgery and continued for the next 24 to 48 hours. There are many different pain medications that can be used safely by veterinarians in cats, and they are relatively inexpensive and very effective! They ensure a pain-free experience and allow the cat to rest comfortably for the next 24 to 48 hours. This also helps the cat to not associate the veterinarian with a negative experience!

Spaying/Neutering

Why should I neuter my dog when I can prevent him from mating with another dog?

Most of us are told to neuter our pets to decrease the overabundance of unadopted dogs that are put to death in animal shelters. Although this is a valid argument, it is not the sole reason that neutering should be considered.
Unneutered male dogs have a higher incidence of certain cancers and prostatic diseases. Female dogs that are left intact are more likely to develop mammary tumors, uterine and ovarian cancers, and uterine infections. All of these medical conditions can be quite serious, and may even result in a shortened life span for your companion. Neutered pets tend to live longer and enjoy a healthier life.

Dogs that resist training may also benefit from neutering, because after the procedure they more likely to accept the owner's leadership. Neutered dogs are also less likely to roam the neighborhood -- and hence have a lesser risk of being hit by a car, being involved in a dogfight, or becoming a nuisance to your neighbors.

Will spaying help lower the risk of breast cancer in dogs?

Unfortunately, there are many dog owners who do not know that spaying a dog before her first heat cycle will decrease her chances of mammary cancer by over 98 percent. This is one reason that veterinarians recommend that female dogs be spayed before they are six months old. Your pet is no more susceptible to mammary cancer than any other female dog that is spayed after her second heat cycle.

Do not regret what wasn't previously done but rather feel good that you have prevented your dog from going through some other potentially dangerous conditions by having her spayed at this time. Pyometra, or infection of the uterus, can be a fatal illness that is common in older, unspayed females.

As far as watching for breast cancer, the best thing you can do is to check your dog's mammary glands for lumps monthly. Female dogs have left and right mammary chains that run from the front leg area all the way back to the inguinal area. You can start at each nipple and feel her skin and subcutaneous tissue around each one. Many owners are able to find a lump on their own if they are in the habit of petting their dog's belly area.

If you find a lump, you should set up an appointment with your veterinarian to have it evaluated and removed if necessary. Mammary growths have about a 50 percent chance of being malignant and spreading to other parts of the body. The earlier you address a growth, the less chance it has to spread if it happens to be of the malignant type. Time frames for this vary but usually they don't occur until the primary cancer has been present for a certain period of time.

Your veterinarian will also check your dog thoroughly at each yearly exam. However, do not hesitate to have her seen sooner than that if you find a growth. You have taken a big step in preventing problems by having her spayed and being aware that you should watch for abnormal growths.

Anal Sac Disease

My dog is always scooting around the floor on his rear. What could be his problem?

Anal sac impaction is a common reason that dogs scoot. Full anal sacs cause irritation and pressure around the anus. Dogs scoot in an attempt to relieve the sensations. Your veterinarian can check your dog's anal sacs and express them, hence eliminating this as a potential problem.

Your dog should be checked for tapeworms and other intestinal parasites, as these may also cause dogs to scoot. Tapeworms commonly appear as "white rice"segments around the dog's anus or in the stool. If you have seen this, tell your veterinarian.

Other potential causes of scooting can include sensitivity to diet, flea allergy, or skin infection.

Consult with your veterinarian for a specific diagnosis.

Hairballs

How can I prevent my cat from vomiting hair-balls?

Hairballs are a common problem in cats that groom themselves frequently, as well as in those that have long hair. When a cat grooms itself, it swallows hair, and over time the hair can accumulate within the stomach. Eventually, the hair causes enough irritation to the stomach that the cat will vomit it up.
Owners may opt to use hairball remedies such as Laxatone, which contain ingredients such as petroleum jelly that help bind the hair in the stomach and move it into the intestines and passed in the feces. A cat treated with such a remedy will defecate the hairball instead of vomiting it.

Laxatone treatment initially is given daily for about a week, and then every couple of days thereafter for maintenance. Some cats need treatment only every few weeks to keep hair from accumulating. For those cats that reject Laxatone, there are now hairball diets and treats available that claim to decrease problems with hairballs. If a cat continues to vomit, have it examined by a veterinarian to be sure that the vomiting truly is caused by hairballs and not by an underlying disease. Cats that swallow string or toys may also vomit, but the ingesting of foreign objects is a more serious condition that requires veterinary attention.

Is it a fever?

How can I tell if my pet has a fever?

Use a thermometer.
The normal body temperature of a cat or dog at rest is 99 to 101¦F. If your pet is acting sluggish or depressed, is reluctant to eat or move around, is panting or breathing rapidly, or feels warm to the touch, it is exhibiting symptoms of a fever. The most accurate method of determining whether an animal has a fever is to use a rectal thermometer.
As with taking the temperature of an infant, the thermometer should be shaken, lubricated with petroleum jelly, and inserted about one-and-a-half inches into the rectum. It is helpful to have someone hold and distract your pet while its temperature is being taken.

If the reading is above 102.5¦F, you should contact your veterinarian. A temperature of 105¦F or more will require an emergency visit to a veterinarian. If the pet holds a temperature above 106¦F for very long, it could suffer serious adverse effects, including permanent brain damage and death.

Vaccine Reactions

Is a vaccination reaction normal in dogs?

My dog just received his first series of immunizations today. After four hours he started shivering and vomiting clear, frothy, mucoid fluid. He looked unsteady on his feet and like he wanted to sleep. He would not eat or drink. Is this normal for dogs getting their first immunizations? Should I have him seen by our veterinarian?
Puppies often get mild reactions to their first vaccinations

It is not uncommon for puppies, especially small breed dogs, to have a mild reaction to their vaccinations. This reaction means that the puppy feels like it has the flu and wants to sleep.

Many puppies will sleep for 24 hours after a vaccination and just feel bad. They should be breathing normally, and have no evidence of itchy eyes, hives, or a rash.

You definitely need to contact your veterinarian and let the doctor know what clinical signs your puppy is having so that the doctor can determine if your puppy needs to be seen immediately or not. Your veterinarian will also document the vaccine reaction in your animal's health record.

Oral Care

I've heard that it is good to brush your dog's teeth. How do I do this and how often should it be done?

Brushing your dog's teeth, combined with professional dental cleanings by a veterinarian, is a very important part of maintaining the animal's health. A dog with healthy teeth and gums is more likely to keep its teeth for life, continue to eat hard food, and have less breath odor. In addition, dogs that have a consistent dental health regimen are less likely to develop bacterial infections of the bloodstream. Bacteria from the teeth are known to colonize the valves of the heart, causing a type of heart disease called bacterial endocarditis.
Dogs, especially the smaller breeds, actually require the same kind of care for their teeth as people do for theirs. Smaller breeds tend to acquire a tremendous amount of plaque and tartar on their teeth. This is most likely because they often do not chew on bones and other hard items that help with the mechanical breakdown of plaque and tartar, or eat soft, canned food rather than the hard varieties.

It is important to start brushing your dog's teeth as early in life as possible. Never use human toothpaste, since it contains foaming agents that can cause the dog to vomit if swallowed. Veterinary toothpaste does not contain these foaming agents, so a dog may safely swallow it. Most dogs love the taste of the veterinary toothpaste, which comes in a variety of flavors, including chicken, beef, and malt. (Most pets will try to lick it off the brush before their teeth have been cleaned!) Also available are fluoride sprays and gels that can be applied to the teeth after brushing in order to help prevent tooth decay.

There are many different types of toothbrushes designed for dogs. Some fit over the finger and are called "finger brushes," while others are very long and angled, with a wide brush head. These can be purchased from a veterinarian or a pet store. Some people use a human toothbrush with soft bristles that will not damage the gums.

Use the toothbrush on all the surfaces of your dog's teeth -- especially the back molars -- at least one to two times a day. You'll quickly see results in the dog's breath odor. The long-term benefits to its teeth, gums, and general health, will be rewarding to both you and your pet.

Exercise

What's a good exercise routine for my dog?

There are many ways to exercise your dog, but the key is to start him out slowly and then steadily increase the length and intensity of his workouts. It is the same philosophy as with humans. Too much too fast will cause soreness and could even damage weak ligaments.

Walking is still one of the best exercises. A medium-sized dog should be walked about one and one-half to two miles a day. Some dogs also love to run, but I would recommend a two or three week walking routine before working up to short jogs. Use your own judgment as to when your dog has had enough by how he acts the following day. If he is getting stiff, or is slow to rise, you should slow things down a bit.

Games that dogs love to play also provide good exercise. Fetching thrown objects, or playing hide-and-seek when two or more people are present, are excellent diversions for dogs. We don't recommend tug-of-war because it can cause damage to your dog's teeth, and tends to increase aggressive tendencies.

Other means of exercise include agility training, doggy play-groups, and obedience classes. Most dogs enjoy these activities because it works their mind as well as their body. If you search out a play-group, try to find one that has dogs of similar ages and carefully "test" them together on leashes first. Sometimes play can get out of hand and escalate into a fight.

If you have any questions about your dog's health and its ability to exercise safely, consult your regular veterinarian. A veterinary examination will reveal if an underlying heart condition or other problem exists that could make exercise dangerous.

Fleas

I think my pet may have fleas. How can I check?

A flea is a tiny, laterally flat and wingless insect that subsists on the blood of its host. Fleas have long legs that enable them to jump tremendous distances and they can quickly crawl through your animal's fur. Check your cat or dog frequently for fleas by brushing them over while they are standing over a white sheet or towel; flea feces -- small, black flecks of digested blood -- will fall off easily, indicating the presence of fleas. A flea comb with very fine teeth is helpful for removing flea debris and may remove some adult fleas if enough are present.
Most fleas congregate over the rump and tail area of the pet. If evidence of fleas is noted, the animal should also be checked for tapeworm segments, which appear as cream-colored, rice-like segments stuck in the fur around the anus or in the feces. Consult your veterinarian for recommendations concerning flea control and prevention.

Feline Pregnancy

My cat is pregnant. How will I know when she is ready to give birth?

My cat is approximately a month and a half pregnant. She is very big in the belly, and I can see all the babies moving. Her nipples are very big, but she doesn't show any signs of getting ready for the birth. How can I tell when she is ready for birth?
Observe her eating habits

Your cat is huge since she is in the late stage of pregnancy. The average gestation of cats is 63 days, making her just about due.

She will begin to show nesting behavior when she is ready to have the kittens. She may also refuse to eat during the last 24 to 48 hours of gestation. This is a good indicator that she is going to be giving birth soon. If she does not give birth, then you may need to have her examined by a veterinarian. It is important to provide her with a secluded, inviting place to have the kittens. A closet or bathroom that can be partially closed off is a good place to allow her to have them. Provide her with a box and clean towels.

Mother cats do not like to have an audience when giving birth and can even delay birth if they feel bothered. They will often become restless and pant prior to the birth. Some cats will vocalize or purr. It is okay to sneak in to check her periodically, but you should disturb her as little as possible. Her instincts will get her through the process very well.

I would recommend that you find a veterinarian to examine the mother, or queen, and the kittens within a few days after the birth. They will palpate her to be sure all of the kittens have been delivered and that she is doing well. The kittens will all be checked for congenital abnormalities and overall health.

Be sure that you are feeding the queen a good quality kitten (not adult formula) food so that she will have enough nutrition for nursing. Please refer to our magazine article for more detailed information in "The Art of Successful Queening."

If you do not wish to raise any more kittens, then I strongly recommend that you have the queen spayed after the kittens are weaned. This will help to keep her healthy for the long run.